Middle East 2004
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Trip through the Middle East (Egypt, Jordan, Syria, and Turkey)
14 March to 28 April 2004
Christoph Haag and Cathy Liautard
From 14 March to 28 April 2004, we visited the Middle East on a combined culture and birdwatching holiday. We had a great time and many nice observations throughout, and mostly nice weather. From a birding point of view, certain species are missing, that may be found on a pure birdwatching trip. In particular, as Cathy is only beginning with birdwatching, we did not spend much time looking at migration but rather tried to find some interesting species and to have a good (and close) look at them. Likewise, we rarely counted birds and numbers may thus not be representative of what was around. In the species list at the end of the report, I therefore report only the countries in which each species was observed.
The culture part of the trip was also really worth it and I can but recommend a visit to places like Luxor, Cairo, Petra, and Palmyra not for birds only but also for their monuments. Here is an account of the birding highlights of our trip. If you want more information, please don't hesitate to contact me: christoph.haag@ed.ac.uk
14.-16.3.04 Luxor
Striated Heron: 1 in channel in a village on the East Bank
Purple Galinule: 3 Crocodile Island
Spotted Sandgrouse: Several flocks came to drink around 8.30h on sand bank just downstream of the big bridge across the Nile
Namaqua Dove: 12 overwintering individuals near a village on East Bank. They seem to prefer sandy areas where sheep are gathered for the night and feed of seed remains in the sheep faeces, but I promised not to disclose the exact location
Little Green Bee-eater: Several on West Bank and Crocodile Island
Nile Valley Sunbird: Several on Crocodile Island and Namaqua Dove place
Red Avadavat: 1 West Bank and 1 flock Crocodile Island
Trumpeter Finch: common in Valley of Kings
The following species were all common: Black Kite (aegypticus), Pied Kingfisher, Barn Swallow (savignii), Rock Martin, Graceful Prinia, Clamorous Reed Warbler, Common Bulbul
We saw the following migrants: Tawny Pipit (1), Blue Throat (1), Isabelline Wheatear (several), Blue Rock Thrush (1) Savi's Warbler (1), Masked Shrike (several)
Besides this: Night Heron, Squacco Hernon, Little Bittern, Black-shouldered Kite, Whiskered Tern, Spur-winged Plover, Glossy Ibis, Palid Swift, Desert Lark, Red-rumped Swallow (several), Red-throated Pipit, Olivaceaous Warbler, Brown-necked Raven, Spanish Sparrow, etc.
17.-21.3.04 Cairo
Senegal Thick-knee: several in the middle of the city (mostly in the evenings)
On the Nile: Little Bittern, Purple Galinule, Whiskered Tern, Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Clamorous Reed Warbler, etc.
22.3.04 Gebel Asfar 9.30-11-30h
Senegal Thick-knee (several)
Smyrna Kingfisher: about 20
No Senegal Coucal (even no calls...)
Besides this: Quail, Little Green Bee-eater, Tawny Pipit, Bonelli's Warbler, Red Avadavat
Having no private transport, we could not bird the area around Bilbeis/Abassa but instead we wanted to visit Ismaylia smelly ponds. However, we found them completely dried out, so no Painted Snipe and Kittlitz Plover neither... (This was perhaps the biggest disappointment of the trip besides that we could not go to the mountains in Demirkazik because of the weather)
23.3.04 Suez
Western Reef Heron 1 black morph
Steppe Buzard: several migrants (though not many)
Common Crane: 15 migrating
Greater Sand Plover 4
Many large gulls, mostly cachinans and fuscus but at least 1 heuglini and 1 armenicus.
White-eyed Gull: several
Slender-billed Gull about 100
Little Tern (2)
Gull-billed Tern (1)
Caspian Tern (2)
Lesser Crested Tern about 20
Short-toed Lark: many migrants
House Crow: common
Plus: Oystercatcher, Grey Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Kentish Plover, Turnstone, Common Tern, Sandwich Tern, etc.
24./25.3.04 Sharm el Sheikh
White-eyed Gull several
Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse: about 20 birds at sewage ponds NW Naama Bay at dusk
Spotted Sandgrouse about 100 at sewage ponds (morning)
Crowned Sandgrouse about 50 at sewage ponds (morning)
Richard's Pipit: 2 at Mövenpick golf course
Besides this: 1 Squacco Heron and some common waders at sewage ponds (plus many carcasses of White Storks); and quite many common migrants (Short-toed Lark, Tawny Pipit, Red-throated Pipit, Yellow Wagtail, Northern and Isabelline Wheatears) at golf course. Also at golf course: 1 unidentified small Falco (probably Merlin)
PLUS many superb fishes and marine invertebrates in the Red Sea
26.3.04 Nabq Protectorate
Western Reef Heron: about 15, of which 5 black morph
Striated Heron: 4
Osprey 2 nesting
Greater Sand Plover: 5
Sooty Gull: several
White-eyed Gull: several
Crowned Sandgrouse: 1 flock calling
Besides this: Purple Heron, Whimbrel, Kentish Plover, Turnstone (and other common waders), Kingfisher, Tawny Pipit, Black-eared Wheatear, Desert Wheatear, Isabelline Wheatear, Northern Wheatear, etc.
29./30.3.04 Wadi Rum (Jordan)
Verreaux Eagle: 1 individual sitting on mountain top behind resthouse. Apparently only one individual is remaining as its partner died (was perhaps shot) some time ago. We later heard the good news that 4 breeding couples have been detected in Dana
Scrub Warbler: several
Tristram's Starling: several
Sinai Rosefinch: Several
House Bunting: 2
Several migrants: Grey Wagtail, Semi-collared Flycatcher, Woodchat Shrike, Ortolan Bunting, Crezschmar's Bunting, etc.
Also Stone Curlew, Desert Lark, Yellow-vented bulbul, White-crowned Wheatear, Mourning Wheatear, Brown-necked Raven, Trumpeter Finch, etc.
31.3.04 Petra
Many migrating raptors (mostly buzzards) but too far away
Scrub Warbler: 1
Palestine Sunbird: 4
Fan-tailed Raven: common
Tristram Starling: several
Sinai Rosefinch: quite common
Other: Desert Lark, Rock Martin, White-crowned Wheatear, Mourning Wheatear
1./2.4.04 Dana
Many raptors (local and migration): Griffon Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, European Sparrowhawk, Steppe Buzzard (majority), Long-legged Buzzard, Steppe Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Kestrel, Barbary Falcon
Tristrams Serin: 1-2
Eagle Owl: 2
Tristrams Starling: several
Chuckar, Scrub Warbler, Palestine Sunbird, Blue Rock Thrush, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Orphean Warbler, Rock Petronia: all common
Further: Wood Lark, Crag and Rock Martin, Crezschmars Bunting, Masked Shrike, plus Nubian Ibex
3.4.04 Dead Sea:
White Stork: 500 migrating low over dead sea
Blackstart: several
Fan-tailed Raven
Tristram Starling
3.4.04: Shauarmi Wildlife Reserve
Pallid Harrier 1 ad female,
Lesser Short-toed Lark
Temminck's Horned Lark
Steppe Grey Shrike 1
Plus semi-wild Arabian Oryx, Onager and Gazelles
4.4.04 Azraq
Some raptor migration with Black Kite, Egyptian Vulture, Pallid and Marsh Harrier, Steppe Buzzards and Steppe Eagles
White-cheeked Bulbul (several)
Bee-eater: first migrants
Many waders at the Qa (temporary lake) including 1 Marsh Sandpiper
Some small migrants: Wryneck, Orphean Warbler, Bluethroat, etc.
8./9.4.04 Palmyra
Bald ibis: 2 breeding! the other 3 were away for food. Only 5 birds returned this year (one less than last year)
Some raptors: Egyptian Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Montague's Harrier, Steppe Buzzard, Long-legged Buzzard, and several unidentified harriers
Black-necked Grebe, Water Rail, Corn Crake (1), Black-tailed Godwit, Marsh Sandpiper, armenicus Gull, White-winged Tern, Great Reed Warbler and a small colony of Dead Sea Sparrows at artificial lake
Bar-tailed Desert Lark, Desert Lark (2), Hoppoe Lark, Cough, Trumpeter Finch, and Desert Finch (quite common) in desert areas
10./11.4.04 Deir es Zor
White-cheeked bulbul: several
Menetrie's Warbler: several
Iraq Babbler: common in reed along Euphrat
Further: Little Bittern, Pied Kingfisher, Savi's Warbler (1), Nightingale (1), Desert Finch, Crezschmar's Bunting, etc.
10./11.4.04 Mhmeidah
Ferrugineous Duck: several
White-headed Duck: at least 6
Marbled Duck: several
White-tailed Plover: many
Iraq Babbler: 2
Raptors: Osprey, harrier sp, Steppe Eagle, Steppe Buzzard.
Also: 7 species of herons, many ducks and waders, including Marsh Sandpiper, Collared Pratincole, Sandwich Tern (1), Gull-billed Tern (10)
14.4.04 St. Simeon (NW Syria)
Mourning Wheatear: 1 just 15 km from Turkish border
Also: Orphean, Sardinian, and Menetries Warbler, Crezschmar's Bunting
16.4.04 Demirkazik:
Snow! Birding in mountains impossible...
Still: Syrian Woodpecker (1), Horned Lark (1), Lesser short-toed Lark, and Isabelline Wheatear at roadside
16./17.4.04 Carpadocia
Rock Nuthatch and Bimaculated Lark: relatively common
Also: Long-legged Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture, Alpine Swift, Little Owl, Calandra Lark, Black Redstart (siamisicus), Rock Petronia, and Rock Bunting
18.4.04 Sultan marshes
Pygmy Cormorant: several
Ruddy Shelduck: about 30
Ballion’s Crake: 1
Spotted Crake: 1
Unidentified crake: 1 (probably Little)
Citrine Wagtail: 1
Moustached Warbler: common
Raptors: Hen Harrier, Long-legged Buzzard, Booted Eagle, Hobby, Red-footed Falcon
Also: Bittern, Glossy ibis, Quail, Crane, Whiskered Tern, Blak Tern, Bearded Tit, Rook
And several Sousliks
19.4.04 Nemrut Dagi
Horned Lark: several
Red-tailed Wheatear: common
White-throated Robin: several
Easern Rock Nuthatch: 1 at Roman Bridge
Snow Finch: several
Cinereous Bunting: common
Also: Wood Lark, Rock Thrush, Black-eared Wheatear (but no Finch’s), and Alpine Chough
20.4.04 Birecik
See-see Pardtridge: 2
Bald Ibis: about 30 semi-wild birds
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse: 1 flock
Bruce’s Scops Owl
Menetrie’s Warbler: common
Dead Sea Sparrow: common
Black-headed Bunting: the first individual
Also: Pygmy Cormorant, Nightjar (1), Syrian Woodpecker, Semi-collared Flycatcher (1), Red-backed Shrike (first migrants); Golden Oriole.
21. and 23.4.04 Göksu Delta
Marbled Teal: 2
Purple Galinule (grey-headed): several
Richard’s Pipit: 3 + 2 + 4 birds (!)
Red-throated Pipit: e.g., 1 flock of at least 100
Black Francolin: several
White Pelican: 5
Little Bittern: a flock of about 30 migrating birds (!)
And: Glossy Ibis, Spoonbill, Flamingo, Ruddy ShelDuck, Pallid Harrier, Red-footed Falcon, Peregrine Falcon, Spotted Crake, Collared Pratincole, Stone Curlew, Spur-winged Plover, Slender-billed Gull, Little Gull (1 migrating with Common Terns), White-winged Tern (many!), Common Tern (many), Tawny Pipit, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Great Reed Warbler, Lesser Grey Shrike, and Black-headed Bunting
Plus: 1 Wolf (or was it only a jackal?)[2 birdwatchers from Marseille have taken it on video, can they contact me if they see this report?]
22.4.04 Uzuncaburc
Rueppel’s Warbler: several
Sombre Tit: several
Krueper’s Nuthatch: several
Cretzschmar’s Bunting: several
And some migrants: Wood Warbler, Collared Flycatcher, Semi-collared Flycatcher.
Site Descriptions and Maps
Luxor
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click on the picture to enlarge
Sharm el Sheikh
For the sewage pond, we followed the directions given in Tommy Pedersen’s report (Birding South Sinai December 2000). Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse came at dusk (but still visible), Crowned and Spotted in the morning.
The Mövenpick golf course is NE of Sharm, to the right hand side of the road to the airport (it is not at the Mövenpick hotel downtown).
Shark’s bay is just a bit further along the road to the airport and then down to the coast: a very nice and relaxed place to stay, compared with all the hotels downtown (and anywhere else along the coast).
Nabq Protectorate
The best mangrove patch is about 2 km northeast from the visitor’s center. This is the only place where we saw Striated Heron, and also most waders were there. From the tip of the peninsula between the visitors center and the mangrove patch it is possible to see behind the mangroves (i.e., the seaside of the mangroves). The Striated Herons are well hidden in the mangroves and are probably best seen when flying. A pair of Osprey was nesting on this peninsula (don’t go too close to their nest). The Sooty and White-eyed Gulls like the fisherman’s place just north of the visitor’s center (but were also seen elsewhere). The mangrove patch and the shallow bay south of the visitor’s center are also worth checking, but it is difficult to get a view of the seaside.
Jordan (general)
We bought “The birds of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan” by Ian J Andrews. “Birds of Jordan” refers to that book.
Wadi Rum
Verreaux Eagle is best seen from the resthouse by scanning the mountain top to the west (the mountain is called Jebel Rum). The mountain top has three parts. “Our” eagle was sitting in a hole some meters below the northernmost of the three parts.
Tristram’s Starling and Sinai Rosefinch can be found near the resthouse or just behind (west) of it.
Scrub Warbler, more Sinai Rosefinches, and House Bunting were found about 3 km north of the resthouse (see “the Birds of Jordan”).
Dana
We stayed at Rummana campsite. This is a very pleasant place and at the same time excellent for birds: Most species, including Eagle Owl were found there or in the close vicinity. It is also a good place to look for migration, and Rock Hyraxes and Nubian Ibexes also occur. For Tristram’s Serin we visited Barra Forest, but they proved to be hard to find and we didn’t manage to get really satisfying views. A walk further down to the valley (which we didn’t do) may produce Sand Partdidge, Little Green Bee-eater, Arabian Babbler, and even Arabian Warbler.
Dead Sea
The mouth of Wadi Mujib was not really worth the visit, although Tristram’s Starling and Fan-tailed Raven were both in the gorge just east of the bridge (easily seen from the bridge). A Blackstart was also in the area, but the delta was used by locals for bathing and there was heavy construction going on.
Palmyra
We went for one day with two local guides (Adib Assaed and Mahmud Abdallah). They can be reached through hellopalmyra@hotmail.com or through Gianluca Serra, the coordinator of the project at gianlu@scs-net.org. It’s worth to go with them, and supports the efforts for the last wild Bald Ibises in the Middle East (as well as many other species). They can show you the artificial lake, the bald ibises, and the desert, and they are a very pleasant company.
Deir es Zor
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picture to enlarge
Mhmeidah
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Nemrut Dagi (near Adiyaman)
Access from Karadut. We found Red-tailed Wheatear, White-throated Robin, Rock Thrush, and Cinereous Bunting at a place with a panel indicating “Nemrut Dagi 6 km”: There is a track forking off to the left, while the road to the summit is going to the right. In the area straight ahead (inbetween the two roads) we found these species. Red-tailed Wheatear and Cinereous Bunting are common, though. Alpine Cough were seen further on along the track, and Horned Lark and Snow Finch at the summit (where there are supposedly also Finch’s Wheathears). The Eastern Rock Nuthatch was at the Roman Bridge at Cendere Köprüsü, indicated from the road between Kahta and Narince (some 9 km off).
Birecik
Just (another) small map for the Owl café:
click on the picture to enlarge
Göksu Delta
It was possible to drive all the way around lake Akgöl (although it was quite difficult at one or two places). We saw most birds (including Black Francolin) and also the Wolf from the observation tower on the SW side of Akgöl. Otherwise we followed the directions given in Gosney’s “Finding Birds in Turkey”.
Uzuncaburc
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Species List
(E = Egypt, J = Jordan, S = Syria, T = Turkey)
Little Grebe E, S, T
Great Crested Grebe T
Black-necked Grebe S
White Pelican T
Great Cormorant E, T
Pygmy Cormorant T
Gray Heron E, J, S, T
Purple Heron E, S, T
Great Egret S, T
Western Reef Heron E
Little Egret E, J, S, T
Squacco Heron E, S, T
Cattle Egret E, J, S, T
Striated Heron E
Night Heron E, T
Little Bittern E, S, T
Great Bittern T
White Stork J, T
Waldrapp S, (T)
Glossy Ibis E, T
Spoonbill T
Greater Flamingo T
Ruddy Shelduck T
Wigeon S, T
Gadwall S
Teal S, T
Mallard E, S, T
Pintail E, S, T
Garganey S, T
Shoveler E, S, T
Marbled Teal S, T
Pochard S
Ferruginous Duck S
Tufted Duck S
White-headed Duck S
Osprey E, S
Black-shouldered Kite E
Black Kite E, J
Egyptian Vulture J, S, T
Eurasian Griffon J, S
Short-toed Eagle J
Marsh Harrier E, J, S, T
Hen Harrier T
Pallid Harrier J, T
Montagu's Harrier S
Sparrowhawk J, S, T
Common (Steppe) Buzzard E, J, S, T
Long-legged Buzzard J, S, T
Steppe Eagle J, S
Verreaux's Eagle J
Booted Eagle T
Lesser Kestrel J, T
Kestrel E, J, S, T
Red-footed Falcon T
Hobby T
Barbary Falcon J
Peregrine Falcon T
Chukar J, T
See-see Partridge T
Black Francolin T
Quail E, T
Crane E, T
Water Rail S
Corn Crake S
Baillon's Crake T
Spotted Crake T
Purple Galinule E, T
Moorhen E, S, T
Coot S, T
Oystercatcher E, T
Black-winged Stilt E, J, S, T
Avocet J, S
Stone Curlew J, T
Senegal Thick-knee E
Collared Pratincole S, T
Lapwing T
Spur-winged Plover E, S, T
White-tailed Lapwing S ,
Grey Plover E, T
Ringed Plover E, J, T
Little Ringed Plover E, J, S
Kentish Plover E, J, T
Greater Sandplover E
Common Snipe E, S, T
Black-tailed Godwit S, T
Bar-tailed Godwit E
Whimbrel E
Curlew E
Spotted Redshank S, T
Common Redshank E, S, T
Marsh Sandpiper J, S
Greenshank E, S, T
Green Sandpiper E, J, S, T
Wood Sandpiper E, S, T
Common Sandpiper E, S, T
Turnstone E
Little Stint E, J, S, T
Dunlin E, J, T
Ruff E, J, S, T
White-eyed Gull E
Sooty Gull E
Lesser Black-backed Gull E, T
Siberian Gull E
Caspian Gull E, T
Armenian Gull E, S
Black-headed Gull E, J, S, T
Slender-billed Gull E, T
Little Gull T
Gull-billed Tern E, S
Caspian Tern E
Lesser Crested Tern E
Sandwich Tern E, S
Common Tern E, T
Little Tern E, T
Whiskered Tern T
White-winged Tern S, T
Black Tern T
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse T
Spotted Sandgrouse E
Crowned Sandgrouse E
Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse E
Rock Dove E, J, S, T
Wood Pigeon S
Turtle Dove E, T
Collared Dove E, J, S, T
Laughing Dove E, J, T
Namaqua Dove E
Cuckoo J, T
Bruce's Scops Owl T
Scops Owl J, T
Eagle Owl J
Little Owl S, T
Eurasian Nightjar T
Alpine Swift T
Common Swift E, J, S, T
Pallid Swift S, J
Kingfisher E, T
White-throated Kingfisher T
Pied Kingfisher E, S
Green Bee-eater E
European Bee-eater J, S, T
Hoopoe E, J, T
Wryneck J, S
Syrian Woodpecker T
Bar-tailed Desert Lark S
Desert Lark E, J, S,
Hoopoe Lark S
Calandra Lark T
Bimaculated Lark T
Greater Short-toed Lark E, J, S, T
Lesser Short-toed Lark J, S, T
Crested Lark E, J, S, T
Wood Lark J, T
Sky Lark T
Horned Lark T
Temminck's Lark J, S
Crag Martin J, T
Rock Martin E, J
Sand Martin E, J, S, T
Barn Swallow E, J, S, T
Red-rumped Swallow E, J, S, T
House Martin J, S, T
Richard's Pipit E, T
Tawny Pipit E, J, T
Tree Pipit E, J, S, T
Meadow Pipit E, J
Red-throated Pipit J, S, T
Water Pipit E, T
White Wagtail E, J, S, T
Citrine Wagtail T
Yellow Wagtail E, S, T
Gray Wagtail J, S, T
Wren T
Common Bulbul E
Yellow-vented Bulbul J, T
White-cheeked Bulbul J, S
Thrush Nightingale T
Common Nightingale S, T
Bluethroat E, J, S,
White-throated Robin T
Black Redstart T
Common Redstart J, S, T
Whinchat S, T
European Stonechat J
White-crowned Wheatear E, J
Northern Wheatear E, J, S, T
Mourning Wheatear J, S
Black-eared Wheatear E, J, S, T
Red-tailed Wheatear T
Desert Wheatear E, J
Isabelline Wheatear E, J, T
Blackstart J
Rock Thrush T
Blue Rock Thrush E, J, T
Blackbird E, J, S, T
Song Thrush S
Zitting Cisticola E, T
Scrub Warbler J
Graceful Prinia E, J, S, T
Cetti's Warbler S, T
Grasshopper Warbler T
Savi's Warbler E, S
Moustached Warbler T
Sedge Warbler S
Reed Warbler E, J, S, Z
Great Reed Warbler S, T
Clamorous Reed Warbler E
Olivaceous Warbler E, J, S, T
Blackcap E, J
Greater Whitethroat T
Lesser Whitethroat E, J, S, T
Eastern Orphean Warbler J, S, T
Rueppell's Warbler T
Sardinian Warbler J, S, T
Menetries's Warbler S, T
Spectacled Warbler J
Eastern Bonelli's Warbler E
Wood Warbler T
Willow Warbler S, T
Chiffchaff E, J, S, T
Collared Flycatcher T
Semicollared Flycatcher J, T
Spotted Flycatcher T
Sombre Tit T
Great Tit J, S, T
Blue Tit T
Krueper's Nuthatch T
Rock Nuthatch T
Eastern Rock Nuthatch T
Penduline Tit T
Iraq Babbler S
Bearded Reedling T
Nile Valley Sunbird E
Palestine Sunbird J
Golden Oriole T
Red-backed Shrike T
Southern Gray Shrike J
Lesser Gray Shrike T
Masked Shrike E, J, T
Woodchat Shrike E, J, S, T
Jay T
Magpie S, T
Chough J
Alpine Chough T
Jackdaw T
House Crow E
Rook T
Brown-necked Raven E, J, S,
Fan-tailed Raven J
Common Raven J, T
Hooded Crow E, S, T
Starling T
Tristram's Starling J
House Sparrow E, J, S, T
Spanish Sparrow E, J, S, T
Dead Sea Sparrow S, T
Tree Sparrow T
Rock Petronia J, T
Snowfinch T
Chaffinch T
Sinai Rosefinch J
Greenfinch J, S, T
Siskin J
Goldfinch E, J, S, T
Linnet J, S, T
Serin S, T
Syrian Serin J
Trumpeter Finch E, J, S,
Desert Finch S
Red Avadavat E
Corn Bunting S, T
Reed Bunting T
Rock Bunting T
Cinereous Bunting T
Ortolan Bunting J
Cretzschmar's Bunting J, S, T
House Bunting J
Black-headed Bunting T